Richard Makes a Platter

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I use Epoxy to glue the platter. I have had good sucess with epoxy. First each side of each joint is "painted" with epoxy. Some woods soak up the epoxy faster and deeper than other woods. The angled parts expose more endgrain and tend to soak in more glue than the feature strips or the with the grian center cut. I apply extra glue if I see the glue has soaked in to much. I want a shiny surface of epoxy for the mateing surfaces. The epoxy I use is clear so any gaps that might be filled by the epoxy will show as a clear space when held up to the light. Even thought the platter stock is sound the clear gaps look like cracks. Even if the gaps are less than 1/32" the clear epoxy will look like a crack. To eliminate this as an issue I mike a filler in the rest of the epoxy so that the eopxy will be opaque if there are any small gaps. The filler also adds strenght to the joints. Just be sure that the epoxy without any filler is applied first so that the glue joint isn't starved for glue. Epoxy is mighty slipery stuff so clamping from two directions is necessary. To much clamp presure can eliminate glue from the joint so the clamps should be secure enought to insure the joints are tight but the clamps shouldn't be so tight that all the glue is forced out of the joints. Once the glue is cured, at least over night, I test the glue joints by whacking the glue-up to try and break the joints. I don't want to endanger the wodd but some sharp blows at the joints will usualy open up a bad joint.